Down with the amuse-bouche

FT.com / Home UK / UK - Cut the fuss, add to the pleasure

I also think that the array of amuse-bouches, breads and petits fours that an ambitious restaurant now makes an integral part of the meal has got completely out of hand.

The most constant complaint I hear from chefs is that they cannot find enough talented and committed young chefs for their kitchens yet too many of these chefs still put far too much emphasis on these often intricate and invariably time-consuming titbits. Is there anything that much better than a bowl of good olives to nibble on while studying the menu? Is the drawn-out recital of the six different, painstakingly made breads adding anything to the table's ultimate enjoyment?

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